This is a tale of our travel through tribal region of himachal
a long cherished dream that came true after lots of planning and a bit of daring.
so here goes...
We started from delhi by 6.00 pm on may 2nd. As it was saturday evening we were caught in the traffic block with in the city for two hours and could escape out of delhi by around 8.00pm. We halted in shimla for the night and started for sangla next day by 9.30. After purchasing a few additional winter wears for some of our team members we left Shimla by 10.30.
However we could not proceed as planned as some problems were noticed with tyre. We halted at a road side workshop to check and rectify the problems. We decided to utilize this time by having lunch at a nearby dhaba and after changing the tyre tube, proceeded to Sangla by noon.
The road till Rampur was excellent and the view exhilarating.
Stopped at Tapri for dinner. After Tapri the road to sangla was blocked due to landslide and had to take a diversion over an adjoining mountain. The driver who was a native of Delhi and travelling on this route for the first time was not familiar with the route. As darkness spread, the confusion about the route increased and it was soon becoming difficult to find any passerby to ask for direction. (Because of the unfortunate delay at the beginning of the journey, we had to travel by night though this was something that we always wanted to avoid) The lack of proper signboards added to our difficulties and soon we lost our way. Luckily we met two passers by ( Angels in Human Form) who directed us to the correct road. But this was only the beginning of problems. The road was only a dirt track with loose pebbles and gravel. Soon on the very peak of a mountain our rear tyre developed a puncture.
We stopped the vehicle and were surprised to see two cars and a lorry in front of us. On inquiry, we came to know that a lorry was stranded on the hairpin bend ahead due to lack of diesel. Soon a chain of vehicles developed waiting for the block to be cleared. Meanwhile, the car at the back switched on their headlight to facilitate the driver to changed the punctured tyre. Most vehicles donated diesel to the lorry and and with help from drivers present there the problem was soon solved and the lorry started to move and so did the chain of vehicles.
In spite of all the problems the view from the car was awesome. A fullmoon rising over the mountains and the snow glistening in the moonlight added to the beauty of the night. We reached sangle at midnight and though we had booked accomodation at PWD rest house, we couild not locate it. The town was deserted with only pack of dogs for company. we spotted a light in a nearby building and knocked for direction only to find two drunk men. Called up friends in shimla who had stayed in the same location before and with the help of their directions we soon located the guest house, only to find a locked gate and no way to enter. In spite of repeated phone calls and honking of horn and creating as much noise as possible, there was no response. At last one of us jumped over the small compound wall and knocked on the door of the caretakers room . At long last the door was open. During this time temperature at sangla was below zero and in spite of the heavy woolens and winter wear everyone was feeling the biting cold. Soon we retired to bed and on the next morning opened our eyes to the beauty of sangla.
After reaching Chitkool , it takes at least an hour to walk down a slippery incline towards the river. Even in may, the ground near chitkool was covered with snow.
The view is too beautiful for words. The mountains covered with snow are all around us and the greenery was mesmerizing. As we had yet to repair our tyre and to proceed to Kalpa we returned from chitkool after spending only an hour and half there to the eternal regret of everyone. With promise to return and if possible to stay in chitkool on our next visit, we started back for sangla.
There are natural caves which can be reached by a short walk over a paved pathway. It also offers us an excellent view of the Village.
a long cherished dream that came true after lots of planning and a bit of daring.
so here goes...
We started from delhi by 6.00 pm on may 2nd. As it was saturday evening we were caught in the traffic block with in the city for two hours and could escape out of delhi by around 8.00pm. We halted in shimla for the night and started for sangla next day by 9.30. After purchasing a few additional winter wears for some of our team members we left Shimla by 10.30.
However we could not proceed as planned as some problems were noticed with tyre. We halted at a road side workshop to check and rectify the problems. We decided to utilize this time by having lunch at a nearby dhaba and after changing the tyre tube, proceeded to Sangla by noon.
The road till Rampur was excellent and the view exhilarating.
Stopped at Tapri for dinner. After Tapri the road to sangla was blocked due to landslide and had to take a diversion over an adjoining mountain. The driver who was a native of Delhi and travelling on this route for the first time was not familiar with the route. As darkness spread, the confusion about the route increased and it was soon becoming difficult to find any passerby to ask for direction. (Because of the unfortunate delay at the beginning of the journey, we had to travel by night though this was something that we always wanted to avoid) The lack of proper signboards added to our difficulties and soon we lost our way. Luckily we met two passers by ( Angels in Human Form) who directed us to the correct road. But this was only the beginning of problems. The road was only a dirt track with loose pebbles and gravel. Soon on the very peak of a mountain our rear tyre developed a puncture.
We stopped the vehicle and were surprised to see two cars and a lorry in front of us. On inquiry, we came to know that a lorry was stranded on the hairpin bend ahead due to lack of diesel. Soon a chain of vehicles developed waiting for the block to be cleared. Meanwhile, the car at the back switched on their headlight to facilitate the driver to changed the punctured tyre. Most vehicles donated diesel to the lorry and and with help from drivers present there the problem was soon solved and the lorry started to move and so did the chain of vehicles.
In spite of all the problems the view from the car was awesome. A fullmoon rising over the mountains and the snow glistening in the moonlight added to the beauty of the night. We reached sangle at midnight and though we had booked accomodation at PWD rest house, we couild not locate it. The town was deserted with only pack of dogs for company. we spotted a light in a nearby building and knocked for direction only to find two drunk men. Called up friends in shimla who had stayed in the same location before and with the help of their directions we soon located the guest house, only to find a locked gate and no way to enter. In spite of repeated phone calls and honking of horn and creating as much noise as possible, there was no response. At last one of us jumped over the small compound wall and knocked on the door of the caretakers room . At long last the door was open. During this time temperature at sangla was below zero and in spite of the heavy woolens and winter wear everyone was feeling the biting cold. Soon we retired to bed and on the next morning opened our eyes to the beauty of sangla.
The next day we had our breakfast at a nearby dhaba and started looking for a puncture shop. Unluckily due to a wedding the previous day the only puncture shop in sangla was not open for business. At last we decided to proceed to chitkool without a spare tyre.
The view is too beautiful for words. The mountains covered with snow are all around us and the greenery was mesmerizing. As we had yet to repair our tyre and to proceed to Kalpa we returned from chitkool after spending only an hour and half there to the eternal regret of everyone. With promise to return and if possible to stay in chitkool on our next visit, we started back for sangla.
We started from sangla to Kalpa without a spare tyre, looking for a puncture shop. Enroute we saw a small procession of kinnari men and women in all their fineries wearing the trademark green caps of kinnaur moving as a procession in honour of the mother godess. They were full of smiles and an old man blessed us and wished us luck.
At Karcham we were directed to a puncture shop near the dam site but it was also closed so we decided to move on to Kalpa. Luckily for us we found a pucture shop around 6.30 and after repairing the tyre we proceeded to Peo where we had our dinner and soon reached Circuit House Kalpa for our haltThe circuit house at Kalpa is surrounded by apple orchards and offers excellent view of kinner kailash.
The caretaker Mr. Thakur is a very gentle person and an excellent host. After a Morning cup of tea, we were off to Tabo by 6.30.The road from Kalpa toTabo at the beginning was nothing more than a dirt track. BRO work was going on .
Soon the landscape was shorn of every bit of green and the mountains took on a barren appearance giving it the much celebrated lunar feel.
The mountains were reminiscent of gigantic piles of rubble left behind carelessly with the snow covered peaks forming a formidable background.
But later there was an excellent stretch of road near Nako.
Nako is a small village with friendly villagers at an altitude of 3800mts which boast of an irrigation tank in which is reflected the snow clad mountains surrounding it
Soon small valleys began to appear in which were nestled small villages. Poplar trees and apricot trees in full bloom added to the charm of the landscape.
We reached tabo by 4.0 Clock and halted at Devachen Resort.After a short period of rest, we started to explore Tabo.
Apricot trees were in full bloom
As the sunset, temperature began to drop and soon approached zero. We soon returned to the room to enjoy the view from our balcony.Next day morning we visited the 1000 year old Tabo Monastary- renowned as the Ajanta of Himalayas for its Painting.
The old monastery complex has paintings and inscriptions dating from the time of its establishment. After buying a few souvenirs from their shop ( Proceedings from sales goes to support a school run by monastry) , we proceeded to Kaza.The drive to Kaza was breathtaking. The mountains in all their variety and majesty left us spellbound. Some looked like gigantic anthills.
Others looked like rough unfinished pillars carved out of mountains.
Kaza, the administrative head quarters of Spiti, is surrounded by snow clad mountains and boasts of a small market, school, eateries etc. After halting at Kaza for a brief lunch, we proceeded to Key Gompa.
The Key monastery is another important Buddhist monastery, situated at a distance of 12 km from Kaza with around 450 monks affiliated to it. Of these around 150 reside within its walls.
Located at an altitude of 4160 mts, it offers excellent views of the valley below with spity river flowing in the background.At the time of our visit, the terraced fields were tilled for green peas which is extensively cultivated in the valley.
Due to the high altitude some of us, especially the kids felt mild discomfort. We decided to skip Kibber village and restrict our visit to the monastery. We had the good fortune to have the special herbal tea prepared by the monks in the monastery Kitchen.
After spending some time here, we stated back forTabo. En route on the banks of spity river we saw a sight that filled our kids with joy. A collection of multicolored pebbles of enormous size were piled by the river. We decided to spend some time here.
We returned to Tabo for the night. The night was very cold. In spite of heavy woolens, and coats we still felt the cold. On inquiry, we were informed that the temperature at night hovers below zero.Next Day we proceeded to Kalpa by 6.30. In between, we had to pass through a stretch of road where shooting stones were falling continuously. There was a police man to guide the vehicles. We saw quite a large boulder and some rubble falling in front of our car. we stopped the vehicle and waited for the episode to stop. But The policeman signaled us to proceed. The driver at the back also started honking his horn signalling his desire to pass. So we proceeded only to find a shower of rubble falling on the car. Majority of the stones passed over the roof of the car but one hit the front glass and cracked the glass. It was just luck that the stone was not bigger otherwise it would have been serious. We reached Peo by 2.30.
After having lunch at Peo we proceeded to Kalpa. The evening was spend walking around the apple orchards. At a short distance from the circuit house is a small natural spring with sweet water.After an excellent dinner, thanks to Mr Thakur, we retired for the night. Next day, after witnessing the beauty of sunrise we started for Shimla via Sarahan.The Bhimakali temple at Sarahan is an wood and stone structure, elegant in design and situvated in a serene atmosphere. The Idol of the goddess is installed on the third floor. We witnessed a man taking oath in front of the goddess to give up alcohol for the next two years.
The return drive to shimla through green hills was refreshing.
Cheery trees were laden with fruit and we purchased some from road side vendors. The freshly plucked cherries were a treat. We returned to shimla for the night.
It was time to say good bye to the Hills and to descend to the plains. We stocked our bags with various HPMC products and with lot of stops for photography.The ride through Haryana was pleasant. Fields of sunflower are a feast to the eye
By evening we were back in hot and busy Delhi.
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